Lesotho via Sani Pass


On 2 February, Groundhog Day, I returned to Lesotho for the first time since leaving in 1985.  Hard to believe that it's been 39 years.

We hired a car to drive us up Sani Pass.  The pass is named for the San, aka these days the Kalahari Bushmen, who used it as a trading route with the Zulu who lived at the base of the mountain range in the eastern cape.

Our driver was an ardent conservationist who pointed out various plant and animals along the route up the pass.  He was very opposed to the plans of the South African government to build a paved road up the pass.  The have already paved a low section of the road, introducing non native plants and grasses which are competing with indigenous flora which provides food for antelope, baboons and birds.

It took about 60 minutes to cover the 6 or so miles up the roughest sections.  We did stop numerous times to view and photograph wildlife and scenery.

I experienced a warm glow as we reached the top and I saw the Welcome to Lesotho sign.  Our driver dropped me off.  I had plans to hike to Hodgson's Peak, a 3 hour hike that offered a good view.  Frances stayed with the driver who took her to tour a Basotho village and then on to a pub that proclaimed itself to be the highest pub in Africa.

I enjoyed my time alone to hike through the Lesotho highlands and remember my time here so long ago.  It was a lot to think through.

As I neared the final push to the peak, the clouds thickened and completely enveloped the peak in fog.  I encountered a herd boy with 4 mangy dogs.  I took this as my cue to head back down.  Most likely the shepard could control his dogs, but I saw no point in finding out.

I rejoined Frances at the pub, and after a quick beer, we headed back down the pass.

We had an excellent political discussion with our driver about the upcoming elections.  I'm working on a separate entry about politics in the area, so I'll save those highlights for later.

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